Spent a week or so surfing in the desert and clearing my mind. In between the overhyped back-to-back-to-back swells and a few all time sessions we did a lot of logging and beach drinking, party waves and poses.

Our buddy, Derek Dunfee, is premiering his movie this Thursday. Definitely worth checking out. We’ll be jammin’ some tunes (Party Sauce & Scorpion Breath) afterwards at Zenbu Lounge for the afterparty.

After an epic weekend involving a few mini roadies out of LA – north to Edward Sharpe/Chromeo in SB on Saturday and a HB surf mission on Sunday, this video seemed pretty appropriate.

“Wolfe came in ‘66.
Warhol came in ‘68.
Twist came in 2010.”

Twist aka Barry McGee in LJ!!!
The pumphouse in La Jolla, rich in history, I spent a lot of my formative years here…

via RK’s amazing journey @ HYDRODYNAMICA

A ship is safe in harbor, but that’s not what ships are for…

Anthony Ausgang for MGMT
more @ boingboing

Check out this preview for the short film by our friend Derek Dunfee.

On June 9th 2008, Derek Dunfee severely broke two bones in his leg while surfing Cloudbreak, a surf spot off Tavarua island in Fiji. Two days later Derek underwent surgery in San Diego California: eight screws and a titanium plate were installed into his leg.

On November 30th 2008, 5 ½ months after Derek broke his leg, Derek caught the winning 2008/2009 Billabong XXL paddle in wave at Mavericks.

Check back or take a look at the Down With The Ship blog for updates and the pending release.

The responsibilities of running your own business can be frustrating, especially when you keep getting calls from the boys back home about how good the surfs been.  Next you start receiving emails with pics, like the above, with the place you learned to surf looking world class.
But every once in a while you get an email like this:

Thank You Reina

Pic (c) Jag Media

The continued warm spell, following 2+ weeks of swell, has me thinking about waves.




All photos by Clark Little (c)
Anyone who has whomped or surfed shorebreak knows it can be brutal, which might make you wonder who would stand tall in the pit to get the shot. Clark is an amazing waterman and big wave hellman, like his brother, Brock. This is Clark pulling into massive Waimea shore break.

While down in the hometown, La Jolla, I caught up with our buddy, Derek Dunfee.  Derek has been charging since we were groms, but recently got some long needed recognition when he won the 2009 XXL award for the Biggest Paddle In Wave of the Year.

His XXL award comes after years of dedication; last minute all night drives to Mavericks (above from last weeks Eddie swell), Todos, and Nelscott’s Reef in Oregon amongst others to chase the biggest waves around.  This winters madness has included two trips to the Artic to surf an icy death slab right.  Derek has also taken advantage of his traveling to hone his photography as well as shoot some amazing water shots.  A few are shown below, and you can check out more at his blog.